Finishing up in Cinque Terre - Sunday

I decided to spend most of the day in CT rather than rush and try to see Lucca also. Figuring after ruining my legs the day before my upper body could use a little workout, I rented a kayak and poked around the coast. First I headed north toward Levanto and quickly spotted several dinner plate-sized jellyfish - meduse in Italian (love that). They were ringed with an incredibly deep purple, and very obligingly floated just beneath the surface of the water so I could stare at them a bit. Not a whole lot of wildlife otherwise: a bunch of seagulls, some little (and not so little) fish, and some crazy fish waggling its fin out of the water. I took a rest on an empty beach (accessible only by boat and off the beaten path), but was worried about my kayak getting swept away with all my stuff along for the ride, so I didn't wander too far. I did, however, poke a lot of snails and a crab or two. I headed back for Monterosso but wasn't quite ready to quit and continued on to vernazza. After another hour or so, I figured it was time to head back, grab some lunch, and head back to Pisa.

I took the ferry from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. The ferry also stops in Vernazza and Manarola on the way, but not Corniglia as they are on top of a cliff and don't have a port. The view was amazing, particularly because I could get a better view of where I hiked the day before. I was glad to see some of the trails up to the sanctuary path looked every bit as bad as they felt.

After a brief detour through La Spezia, I made my way back to Pisa and had some dinner. Prawn stew was delicious, but I have no idea how to eat the heads on those things. I cracked them open and scooped out as much as looked edible, and decided I probably haven't been missing too much.

This morning I did a little bit of grocery store shopping for treats to bring home - mom, I am going to bring you fish from every possible location after that weird care package you once sent - and am now sitting at the airport waiting for my flight. Not a bad couple of days!

1. Riomaggiore from the ferry
2. My rest stop while kayaking

A dinner to make dad cry - Saturday

Monterosso was packed, and I had to wait a bit for a table. I was happily distracted by a little bit of shopping (thanks again, Lex!) and some street performers who were surprisingly excellent and conveniently gave me a chance to unload some change.

Dinner at Enoteca Ciak was salad and fried seafood - calamari, giant prawns, and anchovies. I had no idea anchovies were so good not packed in oil and canned. Also fun, water was served with a giant lemon, no doubt from somewhere nearby; lemon and orange trees are in every back yard, it seems.

Cinque Terre - Saturday

Today I was planning on hiking the Azzurro trail through Cinque Terre. At 12 km, it's reported to be of easy to moderate difficulty, and connects the five villages Monterosso (where I'm staying), Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarolo, and Riomaggiore. Did you notice I said "reported"? That would be because I was forced to deviate quite a bit from my original plan, and missed a big chunk of the trail. Due to horrible flooding last year and recent landslides, part of the trail between V and C and again between C and M were closed. Instead, I had to hike up to the sanctuary trail on a series of relatively brutal trails that basically run inland perpendicularly from the sea, with extended, miserable climbs. (And, of course you also get the massive and equally steep downhill at each village too.). At one point, I was so drenched in sweat (and wearing shorts that showed every drop), I wandered around looking for a more appropriate pair of shorts that would better conceal my butt sweat. Then, failing to find any and noticing all the other ridiculously sweaty people on the trail, I decided to own it. What do you think of that for an inspirational novel, husband? "Under the Ligurian sun: one woman's journey toward acceptance of butt sweat." Clearly a smashing success waiting to happen. (And to be fair, it was back sweat. Mostly.) Then, luckily (and not), it became hot enough that my sweat evaporated and voila! no need for self-acceptance after all! (We can leave that part out of the book.)

Detours, sweat, and heat aside, the hike was so unbelievably beautiful you kind of just want to lay down and die. (Yeah, fine, E, I hear you making fun of my terrible use of the English language.) Actually, without the detours, I wouldn't have gotten to see the absolute best parts of the hike. , including a bare minimum of 900 little anole-type lizards, some crazy snake, and the most gorgeous views ever. One of the totally cool things was being able to watch each little town come and go as I yet again climbed back up to the top of some mountain. Completely awesome. Was hoping to finish the day with some kayaking, but it was too late by the time I got back. Settled for another quick swim in the Ligurian, now off to dinner.

A few pics for your amusement (out of order, of course):

4) Monterosso from way up, going
1) Corniglia from way up, coming
3) Corniglia from way up, going
2) Manarolo from way up, coming

More pics of the towns themselves eventually to come.

Calci charterhouse - Wednesday

The conference was held in a monastery built in the mid-14th through 17th centuries - the most unique venue for any conference I've attended. One guide told us the monastery was built in an undesirable area originally called "the dark valley" - full of prostitutes, he reminded us more than once - to hide and protect what money was left after the plague ripped through the region. After the monastery's construction, the region was renamed "the gracious valley." Way to clean up the riffraff, monks! Apparently the monastery was abandoned by the last two monks in the 1970s, then donated by the church to the University of Pisa and Italian heritage society (or some such). As a result, the oldest parts of the monastery were preserved as historical sites, and the newer or less "important" areas have been converted to house the contents of the natural history museum of Pisa. As you can imagine, this creates a bit of cognitive dissonance: one moment you're gazing at five hundred year old frescos and the next you stumble across a small courtyard showcasing dinosaur skeletons. The museum itself was amazing, and we were treated to a spectacular tour by a Univ. of Pisa researcher who works on site. (More about that to follow.) For now, just a few pics of the monastery and a museum while I'm whisked off through the Tuscan countryside on my way to La Spezia.

Photos:

1. The monastery from within the front gate, looking off to one side. The marble facade was added during a "recent" renovation in the 18th c. This gate leads to a large garden on the side.
2. The monastery is surrounded by a massive wall. On a walk around the exterior, I found a large open gate and sneaked inside for a quick picture. The conference was held in the building toward the front of the group.
3. Just beyond the courtyard of dinosaurs, a room of terror/storage.
4. The interior of the conference room. Made for a nice distraction when I lost track of a presentation.

Trying to make aunt Kathy proud - Tuesday

After a very long walk around il centro di Pisa, I followed instructions and found a restaurant away from piazza di miracoli that did not have a menu in English. Unfortunately (and embarrassingly), after I asked for a table in Italian, I was promptly given an English menu. So much for that. I saw an interesting item on the menu, an with Aunt Kathy in mind, ordered it straight away. Apparently I was the victim of a poor translation; rather than than marrow, I got zucchini. Just as well - it was delicious.

A quick lunch in la Spezia - Friday

I only bought a train ticket as far as La Spezia, and it seemed like a perfect opportunity to walk around a bit and grab a bite to eat. After a little walking I found a grocery store, picked up a few little items (I am collecting quite a collection of hideous silverware), then went off in search of a shady spot for lunch.

1. La piazza di Benedetto Brin. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon on a Friday, the piazza was a happening place. Tons of kids playing, and a lot of people hanging out on the benches. The guys sitting to my left were enjoying a beer while their adorable dog crashed out at their feet (3 - a clandestine shot)
2. Another grocery store meal: fresh rolls, prosciutto, parmigiano reggiano, and nocciola yogurt. Un pranzo delizioso!

Off to Monterosso!

Not as delicious as it looks

"Thin and malt" yogurt? Actually, if you can get past the smell and appearance, it's pretty good. The first sip, though, was experimental, at best. Now I'm wishing I could somehow get some home for E to try.